Learning curve

pant 004


This post comes with a warning – it’s about sewing and the difficulty of fit, so if that’s of no interest, off you go!

We are all different.  Of course we are.  Two ladies who share the same dress size may have totally different topography.  Bigger in the back – wider in the side, fuller tummy, longer torso.  That’s kinda cool don’t you think!

We are bombarded daily with images of people who are slim, sleek and dolled up.  But you know what?  They all have different topographies too!   It’s very rare for two people to share the same shape, be the same height, fit something off the rack in the same way.  And pants, for a LOT of people are a total bugger to fit properly.  Even if you are slim.

Jeans, can be a source of ire for many.  And even the perfect pair need a few weeks to properly stretch where they need to and be comfortable and easy.

I have struggled.  And as a dramatic hourglass – turning more pear shaped as I grow older, I don’t think I have ever bought a pair of pants that hasn’t needed at least a little tweaking once home to bring that waist in.  Bringing the waist in changes the proportions, and can add bulk where I don’t really want it.  Like I said.  Total bugger.

Jeans are now sorted.  The Curve-embracer is 100% perfect for me.  You don’t know how happy that makes me.

But when it comes to work gear, the best pants for me have always been a skirt.  Until now.


pant 003


Tessuti Pattern – Chloe Pant

I know – just plain pants, but the journey has been immense.

And the fact that they are plain is awesome.

Forget the dozens of pants I have made and binned over the years.  DOZENS.  And let’s just start last year with an email to Steph for her Custom Pants Block.  Go see.

I’d never thought about using a block to edit an existing pattern, and I’d often thought about paying someone just to make me a perfect fitting pattern so I could play with the details.  This is almost it, but part I of the puzzle.

pant 005


 (Picture is an exaggerated sketch, but you get my drift)

My block alteration means that for my topography, I need to alter a pattern to  something like this (alterations in pink).  I have been sewing for most of my life but it never occurred to me that the difference in millimetres through a crotch would make all the difference, and that even though my waist curve is the most obvious difference for my figure, that the back would be the place I need to go in the most. The sides don’t even get touched.

Armed with “the block” I have tried a few patterns and still not found the right one.  I’ve tried slim & baggy, but this one, seems perfect for me.  It’s the Chloe Tessuti Pant, and while it still needed altering to allow for my stature and back curve, I now have a pair of pants that fit, are very comfortable and that I could tuck a shirt into if I wanted to without feeling like a freak.  I LOVE them.

Not world changing.  But life changing for me.  Just thought I’d share.



6 thoughts on “Learning curve

  1. They look great, I’ve given up trying to make pants, and mostly wearing them (except for my curve embracer jeans) so maybe I should give it a go again.You’ve inspired me.

  2. So I noticed you have been sewing for a while, and I was wondering if you could give me advice. I want to learn to create patterns from scratch. I don’t know how to sew but I love designing clothes and would like to start making them. Where would you suggest I start ? Also, how do I measure my body (as in where are the key areas to measure, if I’m starting from scratch)? My e-mail is malilla6@gmail.com.

  3. That’s fantastic. It’s great to find a great basic pattern that fits, so you can easily make more. Quite complex, getting 2D fabric to fit 3D bodies.

  4. I just found your blog trying to find good pics of pants alterations. I love your pants, and I know exactly what you mean about a good pants block being life changing. I’ve been sewing since I was 9 and with a changing shape have found making trousers a bigger challenge than it used to be. Wish me luck, ‘cuz I’m almost there….

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